Introduction
At YDPMU, we know that perfecting the lips means more than simply choosing a pretty pigment. Effective lip colour correction relies on understanding colour theory, using a proper 24-colour wheel, and applying the right pigment for each client’s unique lip base. In this guide, I’ll walk you through the essential steps to colour-correct lips like a pro, especially for permanent make-up and lip blushing.
1. Understand the Base Lip Tone & Why Correction is Needed
Before selecting your pigment, first assess the client’s lip base: Is it dark, blue-purple, grey, brownish, or uneven? In many cases, the natural lip colour contains undertones that will influence the final healed result.
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Use your 24-colour wheel to identify the underlying hue of the lips (for example, cool-blue, violet, or warm brown).
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Colour theory tells us: to neutralise an unwanted hue, you apply the opposite colour on the colour wheel.
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Example: If the lips have a strong blue-violet base, you’ll need a warm yellow-gold corrector before depositing your target pigment.
At YDPMU, the careful correction of the base lets the true pigment shine through—so you avoid muddy, ashy or unwanted undertones after healing.
2. Use the Colour Wheel Strategically: Correction → Pigment → Finish
Here’s a three-step workflow YDPMU artists can follow using your 24-colour wheel:
a. Correction
Identify the unwanted hue and select the corrective pigment adjacent or opposite on the wheel. For instance:
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Dark brown lips with olive undertone → consider an orange/yellow corrector.
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Purple-blue lips → use yellow-gold or warm orange tones to neutralise.
This mirrors standard makeup colour-correcting logic: opposite colours cancel out each other.
3. Practical Tips & Best Practices for YDPMU Artists
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Test and patch: For lips with heavy pigmentation or trauma/discolouration (smoking, sun-damage), discuss the possibility of multiple sessions or more conservative pigment depth. Some lips heal darker or unpredictably.
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Start light on the correction layer: A little corrector goes a long way. Over-correcting can lead to muddy results or unwanted grey tones. As the general makeup rule says: the corrector “should disappear” after blending.
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Document healing expectations: Because lips heal differently from brows and skin, educate clients that the healed tone may be ~30-50 % lighter or differently hued—especially after correction.
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Maintain temperature consistency: If you correct with a warm tone, maintain that warmth in the final pigment. Mixing cool and warm indiscriminately can lead to unpredictability.
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After-care matters: Emphasise hydration, protection from sun, lip balm, and avoiding pigment-fading habits (like smoking, frequent exfoliation). Strong pigment correction without good after-care may still fade or shift.
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Use the 24-colour wheel as your reference: At YDPMU, keep the wheel visible in your studio. Use it to explain to clients how you choose “corrector → pigment” visually. This builds trust and professional credibility.
Conclusion
Colour-correcting lips is an art rooted in colour theory, yet completely practical for the permanent makeup artist. At YDPMU, when you master assessing the base tone, applying the right correction, and selecting the ideal pigment with your 24-colour wheel, you greatly elevate your lip results, reduce surprises after healing, and create happy, confident clients. Remember: correct first, pigment second, communicate always.
Let this guide be your blueprint—show it to your clients, walk them through the logic, and let your YDPMU lip work shine.
